Dragonfly Exterior Parts

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Oem Style
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Here are some more information for Oem Style:

It seems that most Terminator owners encounter shifting difficulties due to inadequate clutch disengagement, either sooner or later. Many solve this with aftermarket quadrant/adjuster setups, but there is another way. It doesn't take long, and it costs nothing, but it does require some skill and mechanical experience.

1. Remove the driver's seat. I know it sounds like overkill but trust me you will be a LOT happier if you do this first. Lying upside down over the front of a Terminator seat is one of the most unpleasant positions I've ever found myself in and forget about it if you're over 200lbs! It's actually pretty easy anyway and I was impressed to see that Dave had taken it out in about 5 minutes.

2. Lie flat on your back and look up directly between the steering shaft and the gas pedal, you'll see an off-white plastic thing that looks like part of a gear with a hook on it, let's call it the "add-tension" adjuster. With your other hand depress the clutch pedal back and forth and observe the motion of the adjuster. If you look carefully you'll see that it's teeth are interlocked into another smaller off-white plastic piece closer to the firewall. When you release the clutch pedal notice that the smaller piece ("release-tension" adjuster) rests on the edge of a flat grey piece of metal. Essentially what we will be doing is defeating the ability of these 2 parts to make contact, turning our auto adjuster into a manual one. If we don't disable this first, any tension that is put into the cable will just be taken out by the release-tension adjuster the next time the clutch pedal is pulled up or released quickly during a spirited shift.

3. We'll need to remove the hook from the add-tension adjuster so we can access that metal plate more easily. Using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, cut the hook off almost flush with the bottom, so it looks like the pic below. You could cut it with a pair of dikes but you're definitely risking collateral damage to the adjuster. The hook is only there to keep a spring from unwinding when the assembly is removed from the car, it has no purpose during normal vehicle operation.

4. Now the fun part: Get a friend to hold the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and keep it there. You could cut a piece of wood or find something to wedge against the pedal and something else if you're in a pinch but the pedal must remain pressed as far as it can go. You can try holding the pedal with one hand while working with the other (while trying to hold the light as well) but again, not recommended if you want to remain sane. When the pedal is fully depressed it will expose the top of the metal plate of which you will want to cut the upper part off flush.

If you don't have a Dremel you can bend the top of the plate out (away from firewall) and down 180* but this is not easy to do because that plate is pretty thick and there is limited room to manipulate tools. Plus you have be sure the bent piece is clear of the adjuster when it moves. It's much easier to cut it, just don't push the cutting wheel in too deep because there is a switch right behind the plate.

5. When you're done observe that the release-tension adjuster no longer comes into contact with the plate when the pedal released. If not, you will need to cut or bend some more until the plate is clear of both parts of the adjuster. Also be sure the push button switch attached behind the plate is still properly aligned and actuating along with the clutch.

6. The easy part, the clutch cable adjustment: With the clutch released simply place the butt of a hammer or something with a rubberized handle on the bottom of the add-tension adjuster.

Slowly and carefully apply pressure until you hear a click. If it took a lot of pressure then maybe that will be enough. Stop here and test the clutch pedal engagement height. If the first click required only light to moderate pressure then you will probably want to pop the adjuster up at least one more click. Each corresponding click tightens the cable further and will take more effort than the one before but most people should see definite improvements with just 2 clicks of added tension. I would be concerned about adding more than 3 clicks of tension. This could overtighten the cable or indicate that you may have a stretched/damaged cable or other issue. If you feel there is too much tension use a big flat head screwdriver and push the release-tension adjuster up right at where you cut the metal plate and it will pop loose, releasing cable tension. Be careful when releasing tension because some have had the cable end come off at the clutch fork.

WARNING: Overtightening the cable could result in damage to the cable, pressure plate, TOB, adjuster or excessively high pedal engagement along with a slipping clutch. IMO a properly adjusted clutch should be close to fully engaged about halfway through it's range of motion off the floor. You may also notice a pop or clank sound when you push the clutch all the way to the floor after an adjustment. This is normal because your TOB is now moving further than it has in a long time or even ever before. Over time the noises should get quieter or completely stop. I think it's a good idea to lubricate the TOB/retaining sleeve occasionally as this will quiet down and extend the life of these parts, just be sure not to get lubricant on the clutch.

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Plus Sizing for Style and Performance

The Plus Concept
The Plus concept was born when performance-minded owners and tuners began putting wider tires and larger wheels on their cars, trucks and SUVs. But, one problem they needed to overcome was speedometer accuracy.

Speedometers are precisely calibrated to the rolling diameter of the tires. At 55 mph a 15-inch tire rotates 817 times per mile and, after one hour, the odometer records 55 miles traveled. A 16-inch tire rotates only 785 times per mile. If 16-inch tires are used on a vehicle with a speedometer calibrated for 15-inch tires, after one hour the odometer will record only 52 miles traveled. In this example, the difference in both the speedometer and odometer reading will be about 5.5-percent.

However, performance-minded owners soon discovered that if wheel diameter was increased (from 15-inches to 16-inches) the same rolling diameter and speedometer accuracy could be maintained by lowering the aspect ratio of the tire.

Aspect ratio, often called tire profile, is the ratio between the tire’s section width and section height. It’s expressed as a percentage (70, 60, 55, 50, 40) and appears as the second number in the sidewall lettering. The higher the number, the taller the sidewall. The lower the number, the lower the sidewall.

Plus Benefits
In theory, a 205/60R16 tire has the same rolling diameter as a 225/50R17 tire. The larger 17-inch wheel can significantly change the appearance of the vehicle. Substantial weight savings are also possible by switching to a larger, more stylish yet lighter weight wheel. In addition, the wider and lower profile 225/50R17 tire enhances traction and cornering performance, and also contributes to quicker steering response.  And, all those benefits can be gained without sacrificing speedometer or odometer accuracy.

Plus Numbers
If you’re interested in Plus Sizing, most tire stores offer affordable Tire and Wheel Packages as well as knowledgeable sales consultants to help guide you through the process.  You could Plus Zero, Plus One or Plus Two. The number following the Plus denotes the number of inches added to the diameter of the rim. A Plus Zero is a change to a wider tire, using the same diameter rim.

Plus Zero
Original Tire: 205/60R16
Plus Zero: 225/55R16
This example uses the same wheel diameter (16-inches) plus a tire wide a wider section width (225 mm) and lower aspect ratio or profile (55).

Plus One
Original Tire: 205/60R16
Plus Zero: 225/50R17
This example uses a one-inch larger diameter wheel (17-inches) plus a tire with a wider section width (225 mm) and much lower aspect ratio or profile (50).

Plus Two
Original Tire: 205/60R16
Plus Zero: 245/40R18
This example uses a two-inch larger diameter wheel (18-inches) plus a tire that with a much wider section width (245 mm) and a significantly lower aspect ratio or profile (40).

Look Before You Plus
The first step in Plus Sizing is to consult a qualified tire professional. It’s best to avoid online or catalog sales, if possible. Most tire stores offer affordable Tire and Wheel Packages, so you can visualize the end result before you purchase. A qualified tire professional will also help ensure that your new tires match the load capacity and speed rating of your original equipment manufacturer (OEM) tires. Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Certified technicians will also check clearances between body components under full suspension, maximum load capacity and severe steering conditions.

So, if you’re interested in enhancing the appearance and performance of your vehicle go for the Plus. Stop by your local tire shop to see the many affordable Tire and Wheel packages they offer. A knowledgeable sales consultant will also guide you through your Plus Size adventure.

About the Author

Wally Koster is a retired marketing and advertising executive with over 40 years of automotive industry experience. Belle Tire is working even harder to bring you the best tire price, period! Learn how you can get Out-The-Door with more value, services and protection! http://www.BelleTire.com

Witch clutch is best for me?

I can buy the stock OEM style clutch for $110, I can get a centerforce I clutch for $205, a centerforce II for $245, or a centerforce duel friction clutch for $270. what is the difference in these. I can't see spending a bunch more money for something that won't last as long. what are the pros and con's of each?

My car is a mostly stock 1985 supra with the 5M-GE motor.

You trusted Toyota to make your car, why wouldn't you trust it to make spare parts for it? Keep in mind that most of the clutch replacement cost is labor, and the last thing you should consider is saving a few bucks on parts by buying a cheap aftermarket imitation. The "high performance" AM components may or may not be better than OEM but with OEM you at least know what you are getting.

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