Top Moulding
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Top Moulding
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Looking through a company's set of profiles you may be overwhelmed by the number of choices, and how similar each individual profile looks. At first glance, they do all seem to resemble one another, and it may lead you to thinking that you can pick any profile and stick it anywhere. Well, you can. But before you and your spouse decide to throw bar darts at the printed selection to decide which ones you'll use, read through this and you'll likely re-think, or atleast narrow your choices.
Cornices (also known as Crown Moldings) are usually placed at the intersection of soffits and walls. They provide a "finish" to the top of your wall and can make an otherwise boring-looking corner a focal point. More often they are larger at the top than bottom to give a tapered look.
Bands are the "chameleons" of moldings. They can be used almost anywhere, but work particularly well in the middle of walls so as to "break" the wall, or along the underside of building joints to mask their presence.
Headers are placed over the top of windows or doors and give them a sturdy sort of look. Often, they are larger and/or a different profile than the trims that run along-side the windows. Some may also contain a drip edge, which is an indent in the bottom of the molding to prevent water from running into the window joint. This helps to prevent water from infiltrating into your home through the window joint (but is not a solution to an improperly installed window!) and causing moisture damage. When compared to Trims and Sills, they protrude furthers and are in between in width.
Trims are used around windows or doors as a surround, or in a similar fashion to bands (the two terms are sometimes used interchangeably). They may run the entire perimeter of the window to give it a simple, clean look, or more commonly just between the Header and the Sill. They are usually flatter and narrower than Headers or Sills.
Sills are specifically designed for the base of windows, to help manage precipitation (such as snow) and protect themselves. When selecting sills in particular, it is prudent to ensure the profile has been designed according to EIFS Council recommendations; that is: "EIFS trim projecting out from the wall's vertical plane should be sloped a minimum rise over run of 6:12 for drainage (ASTM C1397, Standard Practice for Application of Class PB EIFS). The length of the slope must not exceed 300 mm, according to most EIFS manufacturer's specifications." This is particularly useful to note as most manufacturers do not comply with this recommendation. Sills are typically largest in size and protrude from the wall somewhere between Headers and Trims.
Stone Sills meant as a replacement for expensive, heavy concrete sills. Due to EIFS innovation, mouldings can be made which look like stone, but at 10% the weight (and sometimes cost!). Due to the manufacturing process, they can also be made in longer pieces which makes installation cheaper and easier. Architectural moldings may also be finished at the joints much nicer than concrete, to the point you can't even tell they're seperate pieces. Did I mention they're less expensive?
Baseboards may be placed along the termination of the EIFS (which should be well above grade [ground level]). Similar to Cornices, they provide a termination to the EIFS system and hide what may otherwise be an unsightly ending. With the right profile (projecting out from the building, with a drip edge), you may also help divert water away from the foundation of your house.
Pilasters may look like columns embedded in the wall, but are nothing more than vertical mouldings with caps and bases. They are popular at wall corners or at intervals along the wall to provide an illusion of "sturdiness" and are often associated with lavish greek architecture.
Columns are designed to fit around structural poles and posts. They don't do anything in the way of structural support so don't think they're going to hold up the roof over your head, but adding them will certainly make your home more impressive.
Quoins have become so commonplace on houses, it has become fashionable to add them without them serving any real purpose. Quoins will add an air of elegant design to your house by making it look better planned and sturdier.
Keystones may have been the key to holding up bridges and windows in the past, but serve more of a design purpose now than a structural one. Like Quoins, they have become commonplace in modern architecture and serve as a focal point for windows, doors and garages.
As you can see, your selection of moulding will not cause your home to either stand or fall, but can serve important design roles and should be used with a purpose in mind. In the end, it comes down to your own personal taste and what will accomplish the look you want. Don't be afraid to ask for a picture of a previous job with your moulding or 3D rendering on your selection if you are at all unsure of what the finished product will look like. No matter what you decide to go with though, adding exterior architectural mouldings to your home will bolster the essential first impression visitors and potential buyers get of your home.
Jim Schwarznoff is a Construction Project Management student with an emphasis on the building envelope and exterior design. To see some examples of the moldings described in this article or more information on architectural moldings visit http://www.decoramould.com
Grp Moulding
GRP,(Glass Reinforced Plastic) Moulding is a process which enables the manufacture of specifically designed products from Glass reinforced plastic, better known as fibreglass; these moulded products can be manufactured for a wide range of industry applications, such as, Building, Construction, Leisure, Marine, Aerospace, Automotive, and much more.
GRP moulded products can be manufactured to meet most requirements and specifications, further-more these mouldings can be manufactured to any size, shape, and can match any BS or RAL colour required with either a gloss, matt , smooth or textured finish's, in some cases peripheral components can be incorporated into this process, such as threaded inserts which can be bonded into the product to provide a fixing solution, or metal work which can be incorporated into the moulding to provide a mount for internal components such as electronics ect, During this innovative process, additional reinforcements can be incorporated into specific areas which will be under load or receive additional stresses; this is done during the laminating process, when additional layers of reinforcement can be applied into the required areas, or sub mouldings can be bonded in, in short, fibreglass moulded components can be tailored to meet any requirement, but lets talk about the process that makes it all possible GRP Moulding.
GRP Moulding is a process that starts off with the manufacture of a pattern also known as a plug or buck, this is a model made from Polyurethane foam or MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) or another material, this model will replicate the required product exactly, with regards to the dimensions and surface finish, once the pattern has be manufactured and prepared the mould can be manufactured from it, the mould can be male or female depending upon the design of the product.
The manufacture of the mould requires a certain amount of skill and understanding, its this experience that will enable the correct tooling materials to be chosen and employed during the mould construction, the mould may need to be more than one piece depending upon the design of the product (flash lines, undercuts, intricacy ect are all thing to give thought to) if the mould is to be more than one piece, then locators will be required on the flanges to ensure the mould section align.
Now the mould has been manufactured and allowed to cure, the pattern can be removed from the mould, the use of compressed air or wedges may be required to break the seal between these parts, once the pattern has been released, the mould can be prepared with several coats of mould release wax, remember before you run the mould a coat of PVA (Poly Vinyl Alcohol) release agent is also good practice and will help the first product to release from the mould with out the risk of sticking.
Now the mould is prepared and ready to go to work, its time to go GRP Moulding,
1. This starts with the mould being painted or sprayed with gel-coat of the desired colour; the polyester gel-coat is the coating that will provide the pre-coloured finish to the moulded component.
2. Once the gel-coat has cured, a layer of glass fibre can be applied to the back of the gel-coat, the layers of glass-fibre is then saturated with resin, the saturated glass-fibre is then rolled with a special roller, this is to remove any trapped air, and to consolidate the glass-fibres, more layers of glass-fibre can be applied until the required thickness is achieved, the laminate is then left to harden and cure.
3. Once the laminate has cured, the product can be released from the mould, the product is normally left in the mould for twenty four hours, this ensures that the product has no imperfections, like, print through from the glass-fibre, shrinkage in the gel-coat ect, but remember, if there are any defects like the one's just mentioned, these can all be rectified by a skilled operative.
Congratulations, you now have an understanding of GRP Moulding, a truly innovative process for manufacturing fibreglass components, and remember you probably see products every day made from GRP, but you didn't realise it, that was until now!
About the Author
About Author:
Richard Hayward from Fibreglass UK writes about GRP MOULDING visit www.fibreglassuk.com for all your GRP MOULDING requirements. The GRP MOULDING is to be the same as the article title and click through to www.fibreglassuk.com
Can anyone tell me what type of moulding to buy?
I am using crown moulding for the top, can I use this for the bottom as well? Or, do I need to buy a base moulding? Can I use regular casing for the bottom trim?
No, you cannot use crown as a base, as it is installed at an angle. You can use casing as your base, but your base should be wider than your casing, and casing is usually more ornate than a baseboard should be (it will hold more dust). There are some fairly simple bases out there, and they are easy to install.
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US $10.00