Dragonfly Exterior Parts

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Tyre Glue
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Restoration isn't a hobby - it's a way of life. Whether you have a recently-purchased classic (stored safely under a car cover) or something that's been sitting on blocks (without so much as a sun shade), taking that first step towards fixing it up can be a daunting task. Here you'll find a few tips that can help prioritize the job and keep you from having to do things more than once.

Tip 1: Restoring a car is like building a house. There's a logical order. You wouldn't build the roof before the foundation. So, the first step in any restoration is to plan out exactly what needs to be done, making a complete list of the entire project to avoid missing something essential or risk damaging a refurbished bodyline or fresh paint job. Once you have an overview, organize it into a game plan. Depending on the repairs you're making, it's best to proceed in the following order: transmission, engine, electrical, suspension, interior, body and wheels.

Tip 2: An older car may have been built like a tank, but the downside is it usually sounds like one too, especially on the freeway. If your restoration includes stripping the vehicle down to the undercarriage, take the time to sound-proof your ride with spray undercoating, insulating foam or reflective insulating wrap. Undercoating helps minimize vibration through sheet metal and is highly effective when you need to reduce noise coming through metal air ducts or fender voids. Expanding foam is great for filling cavities in car bodies and holes in firewalls. Keep in mind, it's called expanding foam for a reason. So, be sure to leave room for expansion, or your fender may swell out like a botched Botox treatment. Finally, reflective insulating wrap comes on rolls that are either two or four feet wide. It installs with spray adhesive and is thin enough not to require any modifications to upholstery or trim, making it ideally suited as a liner in doors, hard tops or over flooring.

Tip 3: The words steel wool and auto repair aren't often used together. But there are different grades of steel wool intended for a variety of uses-notably, very fine grade 0000. It can be used on a variety of auto parts and car accessories, including chrome, glass, stainless steel and other delicate materials, without scratching the surface. Use it with chrome polish to brighten stainless to a high luster, polish auto parts with chrome trim like molding or wheels, and clean around your headlights or rocker-panels. You'll find it in most hardware or do-it-yourself stores. One thing to remember when using anything for the first time: start small. Begin in a corner, underside or unnoticeable area and work your way out. It's the best way of avoiding disaster should the surface not be compatible with the grade or chemical treatments in your polishing pads.

Tip 4: Taping off an area to be painted protects windows and trim but also raises the problem of tearing off a freshly painted surface if you use the wrong tape. If you can, use masking tape designed especially for your application. But when you don't use the right thing and realize too late that you're going to tear up your new paintjob, there's a simple way to get standard masking tape off without ruining your finish, and it's as close as your own bathroom: a hair dryer. Gently heat the tape as you peel it off the painted surface. In case you're wondering, the operative word there is GENTLY. If you're a pro and have a heat gun, that works too, but keep the temperature LOW. The tape will pull right up. It may leave a slight residue but it's easily removed with a mild solvent or a variety of car waxes like Zymol wax.

Tip 5: Gluing vinyl or leather material onto panels or seats can result in splotches of contact cement on the appearance side. Cleaning products like 409, Mr. Clean or other solvents may remove the glue but discolor the vinyl or leather in the process. Instead, grab some vinyl or aluminum duct tape and wrap a little bundle around your fingers with the adhesive side out. Then, just like removing lint from a sweater, pat the glue spots with tape and the glue will come right up. This technique also works on sewed seams and seat covers, a task that's nearly impossible to achieve with cleaners.

Restoration is a time-consuming hobby, but with a little do-it-yourself effort, it doesn't have to be a costly one. With affordable accessories like car waxes, polishing pads, and a car cover, you can refurbish your ride on a budget and be the envy of everyone at the car show.

Recycling Tips From World War Two

Many people think of recycling as a recent phenomenon of the green revolution however there is evidence of recycling from as far back as 400BC. During the Second World War resources were scarce and the Government ran massive recycling campaigns to ensure nothing was wasted

Households were asked to wash their recyclables before putting them out in tied bundles. Waste was segregated for the following uses:

Tins and metal were collected for use in aircraft, tanks and weapons
Boiled bones were used to make glue for aircraft, ground up to make fertilser or made into glycerine for explosives.
Kitchen waste provided feed for pigs, chickens and goats and people would bring their scraps to communal bins
Paper for munitions – newspapers were printed on low quality paper
Rubber was collected to make tyres

Households were also encouraged to mend belongings such as clothes rather than buy new. Campaigns such as ‘Make Do and Mend' and ‘Sew and Save' gave advice on how to recycle your textiles and make clothes last longer. Knitting also became very popular during the Second World War.

On war time rations families had to plan meals carefully to ensure that food did not go to waste. With no fridges or freezers perishable food had to be bought in small quantities and meals were made with some interesting substitutes – tomato and cheese to make mock crab! Meat fat was saved to make pastry and even the cream from milk was collected in a jar and shaken to make butter and buttermilk.

Nowadays we realise the importance of recycling to preserve the Earth's resources, save money, reduce pollution and help combat climate change. However, in the UK we are still falling well below European targets for diverting waste from landfill. The uses of recyclable materials may be different now from what they were during the War but we can still look to our grandparents and the older generations for tips and inspiration.

The Government recycling programme WRAP currently estimates that around 8.3 million tonnes of food is discarded every year in the UK, equating to an average household value of £650. It is also estimated that a staggering 1.2 million tonnes of textile waste are dumped in landfill.

About the Author

Ware 4 Recycling Bins Ltd have been promoting cost effective recycling bins, trolleys and waste containers for over 5 years.

Whats the best and easiest way to remove old tubular tire glue from carbon rims?

I have a set of Zipp 999's off eBay that I want to put new tires on. They have tires glued on them already which I hate and want to change. I want to be able to clean all the glue off the rims (like brand new) without having to scrub for days and possibly messing up the carbon surface. Are there any products that will desolve the glue without harming the bonding agent in the carbon or the gloss final coat of the rim?

Zipp recommends alcohol, acetone, or Goof Off:

http://www.zipp.com/portals/0/support/documents/ZIPP_A6_Wheel%20Manual_0306.pdf

Contrary to another responder, I wouldn't leave the old glue on. You don't know how old it is, what type it is, or how well it was done. If you had been the first person to apply the glue, I would agree, but you weren't, so you should clean them off as well as possible, but you don't need to get clear down to the base of the rim, and in fact you probably shouldn't try. When gluing tubulars, you need to have a good base of glue worked onto the rim. Once you get down to where you can _see_ the rim and there are no big chunks of old glue left, you'll have a good base to apply new layers of glue to.

Read the Zipp manual.

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